Monday, June 13, 2011

Carpe Diem, Our First Two Weeks in Kona

Kayaking in Kona

I almost feel like I should start this post week 2....for we have come full circle.  Although we are still in Hawaii, life in Kona might as well be on another planet.  I'm not sure if it's the sun, or the ocean out my window or just the simplicity of life back on grid but it kinda feels like our off grid life, was merely a dream.  It's like I have just woke up from the deepest,  most mind altering dream ever experienced.  The kind you wake from and can't distinguish... how that wasn't real?  But it was real, yet I'm on this high, this buzz.  It's familiar, deja vu, like, the buzz I used to feel years ago when we would come to Kona for a couple weeks at a time.  Yeah I've been witness to this, I've been here before.  So I guess you could say I'm somewhere in between dreams and I suppose that's not a terrible place to be. 

There's apart of me that feels like I've been waiting for this move for 5 years.  It's truly surreal.  When Dave and I would visit Hawaii we would always stay in Kona. When I would leave the island and mourn Hawaii, it was Kona that was always on my mind.  Yet somehow this esoteric off grid life seemed like it was the only way to make Hawaii work.  The only way we thought we could ever own something here.  I would never say that Hilo was settling, it was just a different life, a different beautiful life, but ultimately just not truly suited for us.  Yet I honestly believe living that life, experiencing that "dream" for the last year better prepared us for Hawaii.  It made us more grateful than ever, if just even for a hot bath.  I admire the people that make it work off gird, more than I could ever explain, but maybe you just can't really teach an old dog new tricks.  I may not be a country girl, but I am an island girl, and I feel like Cinderella... finally slipping my foot into exactly the right fit.  I feel like kicking my heels every time I wake up!  This is my life?  No way, when do I have to catch my flight?  Wait I can stay here?  I can live in Hawaii and go kayaking and to the beach and feel the sun and the warmth...and what's that? I can actually make a living too?  I'm happy.  It feels good.

My husband has been quiet these last two weeks.  He's enjoying himself, but hasn't fully allowed himself to let loose.  I had a job lined up when we moved over, but he did not.  I see he's nervous, yet something is different.  He has a twinkle in his eye.  He's been contemplating his life.  I think he's ready to do his own thing, ready to start a business of his own.  And if we are already going rouge...why the hell not?  We made a little money from our land, now is the time right?  Although we make choices everyday that define our path I feel like only once in awhile, do we truly turn ourselves inside out, shake our life up enough, create just the right moment to do special things, things we would have only otherwise chalked up to pipe dreams.   Yeah, this is that time for him.

There's a good piece of advice a friend of mine that lived in Maui for many years gave me, and I've been thinking about it quite a bit.  She said don't forget why you moved to the island.  All of those things you said you would do, lay on the beach all day, snorkel, kayak, jog outdoors, sleep in your bathing suit, eat by the water; don't forget to do those things.  Never let the island lose it's charm, because then your not living in paradise anymore, your just living far away.  Dave and I made a decision the first night we moved our stuff in.  We walked down to the water.  We sat on the lava rock wall, watched the waves crash in, breathed in the salt air, it's time to dream big, it's time live big. Somewhere in between dreams, yeah, that's where we plan to stay :) 
Our Beached Kayak


Friday, May 27, 2011

Puna, Hawaii Off Grid Land Info

The last few weeks I have received dozens of emails regarding our property for sale.  I thought it would be nice to post some answers to the many questions people have asked me about this area.

On Neighborhoods
Buying raw land in a completely new place is exciting but also scary.  If you are living on the mainland and thinking of buying land in Puna I would definitely recommend flying out here and spending a week driving through the different communities, for they have their own positives and negatives.  I'm not as familiar with Pahoa, but I can tell you I personally would rather be in upper Puna, I like that area better.  Pahoa town (lower Puna) is a very unique, small hippie town.  It's an artsy community with some wonderful dining, but for me I connect better with the locals in the Hawaiian Acres and Orchidland area better.  I feel and this is my personal opinion, that the people living in this area are living here, more for the off grid/sustainable benefits and less for the off grid/ free for all, benefits.   I hope that doesn't offend anyone.  As far as your distance from Hilo, lower Puna and upper Puna are about the same.  Once you get past the Acres heading toward Volcano you run through Fern Acres, Eden Roc and Mountain View.  All of are these similar in landscape, climate, rain etc. to Hawaiian Acres, the elevation is just a bit higher, there for a bit cooler.  You may have some less sunny days and of course the closer to the volcano, you may experience more VOG.  However I think as far as land scape Hawaiian Acres seems to have the most "weed trees," such as wiwi and albizia.  The farther closer you get to the volcano the more old growth you see, ohia and hapuu.  I know there are some 20 acre farm lots in Mountain View, quiet, cool elevation, safe.  This was something we considered.   Continuing south you'll go through Fern Forest.  For me, this is my least favorable community, for some reason I get the eeby jeebys whenever I go through Fern Forest I just don't feel very safe over there.  All of these communities may or may not have access to power poles.  This is something to find out before you buy.  For example we are 10 poles away from power.  At $8,000 a pole, electric hookup is just not an option.  If it's something you may want, you'll need to ask.  Any of these communities will supply enough rain for catchment.  There are some communities such as Hawaiian Paradise Park, which is on the way to Pahoa that are a bit more developed and electric is ready for hookup, but you still get the benefits of water catchment.  I personally really like HPP.


On Bulldozing/Grading
Of course it's your choice whether you want to clear a small spot and live in the woods, or clear your entire property.  The existing landscape will tell you how much work it will be.  If your property is filled with guava/wiwi it will take a D9 to get the root balls out.  Digging them out by hand is time consuming and exhausting.  If you  don't dig them out they will grow right back.  A D9 can run from $500-$1000 a day.  You can book them by the hour or day.  If you have mostly ferns and ohia, life is going to be a lot easier!  So make sure you ask what is growing on the property.  We were able to hand clear (with just a chain saw and weed whacker) a good portion of our property.  Also if the property has never been cleared or graded before you may need to have it ripped to flatten it out a bit.  This can also be costly too.  You will also need to consider putting come money aside to have a driveway scraped and blue rock poured down so that when it rains you don't get stuck in the mud.  Just some things to consider when your deciding which lot is best for you.  How much work are you willing to do?  Some of the more wooded properties make the most beautiful private driveways, but it takes a lot of work!

Also the more trees, ferns, bushes, etc the more places for rats, bugs mosquitoes and mongooses to live.  The more you clear the more pests you get rid of.  But also the more beauty, nature and privacy you get rid of. 

Remember to check flood patterns in the area of your potential lot.  A real estate agent may say the property has "season streams."  What might sound quaint, could potentially flood your property and damage your home.


On Pests
Another common question I've been asked is about coqui frogs.  Yes every community in East Hawaii has them.  All you can do is drive by the land around sunset, so you can get an idea of how loud they are.  Here on our property they are not that bad.  On some properties they are ear piercing.

There are no snakes or monkeys! Lol.  But there are rats, ants, spiders, wasps, mosquitoes and centipedes.   Most are somewhat controllable.  However, if you are highly allergic to mosquito bites I would really recommend you live in Kona.  It is impossible to control the mosquitoes.  There is no die-off season and there is always standing water somewhere, if not on your property then someone elses.  I am not highly allergic to them but even with that being said, if you hate them, it may be hard for you to live here.  One little mosquito trapped in your house can really have the power to drive you bonkers!  Especially when they buzz around your ear while you try to sleep :)  I really had to adjust coming from hot Arizona where the mosquito season was only 2 weeks long.  But if you love your off grid life enough, you'll learn to deal with it.  Chickens are a great helpers, they love to eat bugs, centipedes especially.

Most anyone in Puna will deal with wild pigs and mongooses.  They are not so aggressive as mostly they are just destructive.  The pigs will root up you garden, they love banana roots and may even get in your trash.  The mongooses may attack your chickens.  For anyone not familiar with them they are like little hardy ferrets.   It is not legal to fire a gun at a pig on your property, although people often do.  You can use a bow an arrow, or a pig trap legally and eat as many as you like.  However if you set up a pig trap you have a responsibility to keep an eye on it.  Many people end up trapping there neighbors dog in it, as you can imagine that could upset them.  With that being said there is also a persons own responsibility to keep there animals whether it be dogs, sheep, goats or whatever fenced or leashed.  However this often does not happen, it's important that you come to the island with some tolerance for other peoples free range animals.  It's just a way of life.


On Fencing/ Property Line
Here in the Acres and I imagine on all properties there are four metal pins that have been put in the ground defining the four corners of your property line.  If the property is over grown you can pay someone to come out to survey and stake the property so that you can define your exact property line.  Or you can use a metal detector and try and fine your pins yourself.  Just remember encroachment is against the law.  If you get lazy and plant or build on the property line, because no one is there, maybe next year, maybe ten years you may find yourself in a yucky situation.  For your own protection, define your correct property line before a neighbor moves in.

I personally think fencing is unnecessary unless you have live stock.  However, I have heard that if you do not post (no trespassing sign) or put up a driveway gate/chain that the police can legally enter your property without warrant.  We have never posted and do not have a gate, the only unwanted guests we have had are bible pushers (no offense).  Either way a gate is probably not a bad idea.   Yet we have had no trouble without one.


Crime/Violence/Drugs
There are of course many pot smokers on the island.  This is not something I condone or advocate, but I think you may need some tolerance for it, you will see it often.  As far as hard drugs ice/speed has become a problem on some of the islands.  I see it no more here than I saw it on the mainland.  I don't feel it interrupts my general feeling of safety or comfort.  The Big Island has started a strong movement against it.  I believe eventually it will be mostly pushed off the island.  Petty theft can be a problem.  Living somewhere in the country with no one around, yeah your shovel or generator might walk away.  Get to know your neighbors, and look out for each other.  In all honesty this feels like the safest place I've ever lived.  Violent crimes are just sooo rare here.  In fact the last murder that happened on the island was a tourist that killed another tourist.  If someone steels a car the DJ just announces it on the radio.  I mean, it's an island, where are they really going to go?


On Building/Permits
Building an un-permitted structure  is illegal.  However in just about all parts of Puna it is tolerated.  Many people use an RV, camp or get a container to live in while they build.  I personally think building a small dry spot to live in while you build your permitted home is the way to go.  Then later you have an ohana for guests.  Living on property or nearby is a good idea that way your tools and wood don't get stolen.  We never had anything taken, but it does happen.  If you decide to build a kit or prefab home supplied by a company such as HPM or Argus your building permits are going to go through quite a bit faster as soon as 60 days.  If you are building a custom home, they will take longer.  I have heard up to a year or more.  Remember anything built in Hawaii must be signed off by a licensed Hawaii architect before it will be approved.   Many people living in Puna are off grid and or un-permitted.    It's nice to have such freedom, but remember if your doing it,  you better keep your nose out of the neighbors business.  Glass houses you know? lol  There are no community associations getting in your business here, and that's why people live here.  Everything you see might not be anything like the mainland, rusted-out cars, houses piece-milled together, multiple structures on one property, trash piled up.  It's country you know?

On Internet Service/TV/Utilities
I think by far Verizon is the best on the island.  Unless you live right in Hilo your service will never be extremely fast.  I would recommend a Wilson Mobile Wireless Dual Band Amplifier.  It definitely helps boost your signal.  Service will be hit or miss it all depends on your exact location.  We use our phones as a hot spot, with the signal booster our service is fair-good.   I can do my blog, watch you tube videos, the basics.  4G is not available on the island.  We have a $40 TV antenna that gives us about 10 channels, the basics plus PBS.  It comes in fine.  No cable Internet or cable TV sorry guys.  

You will have to haul your own trash if you live in Puna.  There are transfer stations near each respective community that you can take your trash too.

You will need a PO BOX, no mail service.  If you have an address (i.e a permitted structure is the only way to have a physical address assigned to your lot)  then FED EX and UPS will actually drive out on our crappy roads to deliver your packages!  I am so impressed by this :)

Well that's about the last bit of advice I can give anyone thinking of moving off grid.  I hope this blog has answered some questions for people!  And if you are considering moving to Kona, well keep reading I'm sure I'll have a lot to learn and share :)   I guess the number one piece of advice I could leave anyone with who is considering moving to Hawaii is.... smile.  Not everyone here has perfect teeth, clean clothes, some people living in the back woods look down right scary.  But you can never tell a book by it's cover here.  99.9% of the time you'll get a great big grin in return.  And when your driving down these off grid roads looking for your own piece of paradise, show respect to those who came before you, throw the shaka, wave, smile, whatever just spread the Aloha.  I promise you will get it back!


Wednesday, May 25, 2011

A True Labor Of Love

It is a farmer that has bought our place.  This is not a surprise to me.  Really, more than one acre is a lot to keep, just for the sake of having a yard.  This farmer's family has already had a successful go at it in Oregon for many years prior.  His father and mother, farmers before he.  I wanted to be a farmer.  To wake everyday, to what I thought could be my labor of love.   But now I realize farm life is not for me, it's true some professions are just not for everyone.

It's funny how we pass down our labors to our children, the son of a doctor becomes a doctor, the son of a preacher, a farmer, an oil man, often we grow into these suits already laid out for us.  I don't think it's always because of pressure, nor is it just convenience.  I think often it just makes sense.  But you see, my mother worked in the casinos, and my father was a car man. Neither of these professions for me ever really made sense.  So at seventeen, I packed up my car and went off on my own journey, to find something, that would really get under my skin.  Since then I have been responsible for many financial gains, and many financial losses.  I've made my share of career options, my share of envious adventures, and even had my quarter life crisis.  

You see, finally I understand.  I have been searching for a place, a profession, an amount of money, an obstacle, a challenge, something to finally keep me grounded.   I created the most unthinkable, manifested the most challenging idea I have ever come up with. Surely after all the hard work, I wouldn't dream of throwing this off grid life away.    But the soul doesn't work that way.  It does not rationalize, it does not way the pros and cons, it doesn't mind being wrong.

Truthfully for me, what gets under my skin, my labor of love, has always been the same and it's been here all along.   It's been shoved aside by my own self doubt.  Quietly piling up in the corner of my any given home.  It's been with me for every journey, it's been gathering dust, making that moving box just a little heavier each time, making me just a bit more stubborn, and a bit crazier inside.  As I pack up that box one more time, I'm laughing happily insane I guess.  I think of a quote I once read,

Say not, "I have a found the truth," but rather, " I have found a truth."
Say not, "I have found the path of the soul," Say rather, "I have met the soul walking upon my path."

Every life change, so that this might be a better life to write about.
Every hour of work, so that I might write with less guilt, that writing doesn't pay the bills.
Every heartache, every pleasure , inspires me to write.

And though it's my passion, I some how don't feel worthy.  I am not the daughter of writer, I have not been so endowed.  Who am I to I think I have anything to say?  So I continue on my plight to find something else to keep me grounded, a better job, a better zip code, a better cause.  Today this ends.   It has meant the world to me, those who have said they would continue to read, even though, I suppose Ex Big Island Off Gridder, may now be a more fitting blog roll :)  Maybe I'll turn this blog into a book, maybe I''ll write a memoir, but I have to try and do this.  Nothing else will work for me, it's just the way it is.  It's my labor of love, and it cannot be replaced.

And to anyone that might be thinking of turning their life upside down to find a deeper meaning, I say go for it, for sometimes the obvious answer, is hidden deep in our own self doubt. 

As for the move I'm truly looking forward, with all this yard work aside, I should have more time to write!  LOL



Wednesday, May 18, 2011

The Little Cabin That Could...

To my surprise we have received quite a bit of interest in our little property.  As I walk around, I find myself on the other side of years worth of knowledge.  And you know what??  I know more than I expected about this off grid thing!  Although lately I feel as if I've taken 10 steps back in my direction of life, I know this last year I have taken 10 steps forward in my emotional and physical strength.   And hell at the very least I now know that if the end of days ever draws near, Dave and I are capable of making the coziest self contained little cabin on the block; a compliment we have received from numerous prospective buyers.

Yes this little 175 square foot cabin truly is, the little cabin that could.  It has been our dry spot, our sanctuary, our home, at times the brunt of our jokes, but mostly it's been a place of lessons and growth.  At times it's pushed my husband and I apart, but mostly it's strengthened our belief that we can do anything together.  And soon it will be that and more for someone else.

As I guide someone around our 3 acres, I remember the day I discovered a beautiful avocado tree beneath a mountain of ferns.  I remember the first day I stayed on property alone, paralyzed with fear, away from my city where people were all around.  I felt vulnerable.  Now I know most everyone within a square mile, and each would go to bat for us without a blink of an eye.  Because, I didn't know it then, but that's what aloha is all about.  Fondly I think of our friends who spent there whole Hawaiian vacation helping us plant and build this life.  I hope they know how much it meant to us.  And how it will all pay forward, for the next person who reflects on all of their own "firsts" on this land.

I also think about the 140 posts I have made about this adventure and how it doesn't nearly document the complexity, or the splendor, the hard work, the laughter the enlightenment of this last year.   But  I guess that's life only truly understood when experienced from inside looking out.

So soon once again Dave and I will be city dwellers, with a little country kick to our step, and little more life knowledge.  And just because we can, we've both decided to take a little souvinere from this last year... Dave the generator and I the machette.  You know just in case the end of days does ever come! :) lol

Friday, May 13, 2011

The Fairwell

"We are the seeds of the tenacious plant, and it is in our ripeness and our fullness of heart that we are given to the wind and are scattered."Gibram

Today I feel as if I walked in on myself having an affair with another me.   It's cryptic, the day you realize you have know idea what you want or who you are.  I feel more guilt over this move than anything I've ever done in my life.  Years we spent planning every detail of this life change.  But then how could I ever forget, you can never plan for a change of heart.

I've been driving across the island on my days off, dropping off resumes, going on interviews, looking for a new place to live.  Truth is the transition is happening quite easily, we even found a new place, perfect location, perfect price, perfect ocean view, and I am sadder than ever.  Feeling something like I just lost my title fight, the fight of my life.  And I don't even have enough left in me to get back up off the mat.  The burden of defeat weighs more than I could ever imagine.  

I never predicted it would turn out this way, so there it is.  I was attached to an idea of life that I have to let go.  My husband says...ready for the next adventure?  He is eternally positive, and I love that.  But today I guess I feel it's only right to mourn the past.  Tomorrow I'll be ready. 

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

A Change Of Plans, Our Land For Sale

A cold front has come through the island.  Yesterday I was in Kona, the usually "dry side" was raining harder than I'd ever seen it.  Today in Hilo, the same cold front has moved across the island.  Henny Penny has kept her chicks closely under her as to keep them all warm.  She made her first visit out to the yard yesterday, showing all eleven of her chicks how to scratch and peck.  I'm truly entranced, I could watch them with her all day.  These are the parts of our life, that what makes what I'm about to say truly bittersweet.  Dave and I are moving to Kona.

We have grappled with this decision for months.  We both have continually pushed through our feelings of doubt because we want this to work so badly, but the truth us, you can take the person from the city, but not the city from the person.   I could probably get passed the bugs and the cold showers, and the "inconveniences" of living off grid but the fear of being financially strained for the rest of our lives over powers me.  Money doesn't buy happiness but it does offer peace of mind.  Without that I feel an inability to plan for the future.  A child would be nice one day.  How can I bring a child into this world when I knowingly cannot afford to take care of it.  Even all of our ideas of farming the land, would still never amount to a comfortable way of life.  I wish I was independently wealthy!  The way we live is truly enchanted, and I will miss it.

Yesterday in Kona I applied for an apartment and for a couple jobs.  Today I was told we were approved for our place, and two of the places I applied for called me back for an interview.  I'm remorseful, sad, excited and hopeful all at the same time.  I can only describe it as surreal.  I have truly bonded with the people I work for and will miss working there.  But I will say as much as I adore Hilo, I also love Kona, I know we will have a wonderful life there, and I guess this means, the adventure only continues..  I hope this does not discourage anyone's dreams of living off grid, because I would not have changed a moment of this!